It hardly seems possible now, that it’s 5 years since the World ground to a complete halt. Being the year of our Ruby Anniversary, we had several things planned and a couple of trips booked, which all needed to be cancelled or rescheduled. 😢😢 In the interim years, and as we approached the next significant anniversary, we have managed to reschedule and enjoy all except one trip.
Finally though we made it and hopped on a flight to Belfast, for a five night break. In recent times, I have started to dread airport security, the long queues, the necessity to empty all your small toiletries from your hand luggage, take out your electronic gadgets and put belts and watches through security 😫. However, we were on an early flight and there were no queues 👍, and to our surprise we no longer needed to empty anything out of our hand luggage or take our watches off 👍. Only thing we had to do was empty our pockets and take off any belts 👍. Amazing we were through in 5 minutes . . . . . . . . . and relax ☺️
It was a lovely short flight, no sooner were we up, had a cup of tea and read the paper, cabin crew were tidying up and we were making our descent. Belfast City Airport is very small and possibly only caters for national flights, as there was no security and with our little plane only 2/3rds full, only half a dozen cases came off the belt (two of those being ours 😂).
We thought we’d grab a bus into the City centre, but after trying to navigate the app to buy tickets and realising it was still a walk from the station to the hotel, we opted for a taxi and we’re glad we did. Such a nice guy, told us a little about the City and where the best pub was in the vicinity of our hotel 🍻.
It was a tad early for a pint, so after dropping our bags we set off to explore. We hadn’t gone too far when we were approached by a couple of guys selling hop on hop off bus tickets. With this being on our to do list we listened to the spiel from one, then as the second started giving his, we realised they were actually from two different companies 😬. We bartered a bit and they matched each others offers. We ended up tossing a coin to see which to purchase. However it was a win win. The price for 2 consecutive days online was £25 pp We got tickets for Tuesday and Saturday for a mear £18 pp 👍
You got to love a hop on hop off bus. It’s a very touristy thing to do, but you get ideas of places to visit, learn a bit of the history and get your bearings. It also showed us what a small, accessible City, Belfast, actually is.
We took the entire trip, before alighting at City Hall and strolling back towards the hotel to find the recommended pub 👍. What a beautiful, friendly pub. If I was a local, I would be trying to keep the tourists away 😂. The Besties tried the local nectar, Guinness. Sorry Belfast, I just can’t get what’s to like, so I stuck to the cider 🍻
It had been a long day, so pizza along the road from the hotel, filled our belly’s. We’d missed Monday night cheap date night, so hubby had to pay full price for me. But I’m worth it 🥰. Pizza Punks was also filled with the sound of Punk Music, taking us back to when we first met 💙. A nightcap in the hotel bar, completed the evening and we headed off to get a good nights rest before the next days planned explorations.
Gobbins Cliff Path – This cliff path had long been on my wish list. A unique way to explore the coastline. A 5 km walk climbing flights of uneven stone steps and crossing three bridges spanning, inlets, a headland and caves. Walking high above the sea, crashing on the rocks below. My hubby is not so comfortable with heights and looking at the pictures below, it had taken a little persuasion for him to join me on the walk.
However his luck was in, as a few weeks before our trip. during strong winds, there was a land slip and the Cliff Path was closed to the public. At the time of our trip, there was even no access to the visitor centre.
As an alternative, we were directed to another nearby coastal walk at Blackhead. A shorter less strenuous walk, it still took us up hill towards a lighthouse and down dale to the beach. The views were spectacular and with the sun shining it was a perfect start to the day.
At the bottom of the cliffs was the colourful town of Whitehead. It was like being on the set of the kids tv show Balamory. Quaint but great spot for a cuppa before heading on to our next port of call.
Gracehill – Having seen this little village on a programme about World Heritage Sites, it seemed like the perfect place for a short break as we headed North.
It is the only complete Moravian settlement in Ireland. Being a Christian way of life, community is key, and although they have personal possessions, working together and sharing for the good of others, is the root of their beliefs. The community supports themselves through growing their own food and the sale of handicrafts.
Gracehill was established in 1746 and although it has expanded, many of the original houses still stand. The cemetery is the final resting place of centuries of villagers. Their headstones are unusually laid almost flat to the ground and men are buried on one side of the cemetery and the women the other.
We found the grave stone of Sir William Wright, the son of the founder of Wright Buses, who reinvented London double decker buses and later became a politician. He passed away in June 2022. His headstone mentioned his wife Ruby and as we strolled further into the cemetery we discovered she had passed away two years after her husband and buried on the opposite side of the cemetery 😢.
There is a walk around the village, but our hubby’s had disappeared 
down into the main square so we headed to find them outside the church. There was a beautiful garden in the centre, but a sign asked visitors not to take photos 🤷♀️. The tiny museum next to the church gave an insight into the way of life of the community and housed a cafe, which was surprisingly busy so we didn’t venture inside, just took ourselves back to the road towards the Giants Causeway.
Giants Causeway – A very famous site on the North Coast, but no television programme, nor any amount of photographs can prepare you for the breathtaking views as you approach the unique columns.😮
It was a gloriously sunny day and the views were spectacular. We opted for a short guided tour to learn some of the history and myths around how the causeway formed.
Around 50 to 60 million years ago, there was a lot of volcanic activity in the area and the molten lava seeped through the chalk beds forming a plateau. As the lava cooled it contracted and caused cracking to the ground below, forming the distinctive columns.
The tops of the columns have formed stepping stones and lead down to the sea. Most are hexagonal, but some have varying numbers of sides, from 4 to, we were told, 9.
Our guide related tales of giants, one building the causeway as a path across to Scotland after the challenge of a fight. When he is chased back he loses a boot in the sand and then hides in his baby’s crib. The persuing giant sees his foot sticking out of the crib and assumes with the baby being so huge, his Dad must be enormous and flees back to Scotland in fright, destroying the causeway behind him. Similar columns at Fingalls cave may have given credence to the legend.🤷♀️
There are deep layers of iron rich red rock, which erosion has exposed around the site, and high above the beach more columns known as the organ pipes, due to the way they rise up the cliff side, magnificent.
After our tour, we were free to roam around the site, exploring the columns as we climbed up and across them. The waves crashing onto the rocks as the tide crept in, filled the air with a fresh, salty aroma.
The main site is fully accessible, with a little bus trundling back and forth to the visitor centre every 15 minutes or so.
We however chose to climb up to the organ pipes and around the headland to view the amphitheatre area, which was closed due to possible landslips. The views from on high made the effort so very worthwhile. Retracing our steps back to the pipes, we continued on to climb the 162 stone steps up to the hilltop walk.
More amazing views from the top, as we made our way back towards the visitors centre, including 3 helicopters that passed by several times.
Such a fascinating day, walking and climbing as we explored the beautiful coast line of County Antrim. We were aghast when we checked our steps to find we had walked over 23,000 steps and climbed 49 floors!! Yet we still had the energy to head out for a delicious curry and a pint at the local 🥘🍻
Hillsborough Castle – Included in our Historic Royal Palaces membership, this beautiful Royal Residence was always going to be on the agenda. We had had a bit of trouble booking, with the website showing no availability 🤷♀️. Turns out their Majesties were in residence the week before, so I assume the Palace was awaiting confirmation of dates prior to opening the calendar. Phew, our visit could have been scuppered for a second time 😮💨
Strolling into the main entrance, we were greeted by a beautiful display of flowers, blooming against the golden signage confirming we’d arrived. Certainly a royal welcome.
The gardens are vast, but being the early part of spring the plants and trees were only just starting to bloom. The lawns and hedges were immaculately trimmed and the borders were bursting with the colour of daffodils and snowdrops.
Along our route, was a small cabin, filled with not only memorabilia, but drawers filled with birds eggs and taxidermy. Not everyone’s cup of tea, but interesting nonetheless. A short walk on and we took a seat at Lady Alice’s Temple, a small folly looking across a lake towards the Castle. You could imagine taking tea on a warm summers afternoon, whilst enjoying the tranquil views.
The gardens have several areas encouraging children’s inquisitive minds to interact with nature. There were no children around so we let our inner kid explore.
The peaceful woodland walk, took us across a babbling stream, passed exquisite magnolia trees in full bloom and on towards the castle itself, stumbling upon imaginative plant displays. Sculptures of pets and wildlife alike were dotted along the banks of the lake. Whilst a life size replica of a horse and carriage, once again brought out our inner kids.
The traditional ice house has been maintained. Used to keep foods cold in the days prior to refrigeration, it was hard work for the estate workers, who had to ensure it was fully stocked during the cold winter months and barrowed up to the house when needed to keep food and of course wine chilled.
We had a tour of the castle booked, but being a Royal residence we were unable to take photos (a ploy to get you to purchase a souvenir guidebook 😂).
The state entrance hall has been newly refurbished and the walls made to look like sandstone. I got a ticking off for touching the walls Oops 😬. The walls are filled with portraits looking down to see who is coming to visit and or naughtily touching anything 😂
Through the ante room, a desk was positioned to enable occupants to look out onto the magnificent gardens. Not sure I’d get any work done. The room had a multitude of doorways giving access to a variety of other rooms. Through one we entered the Throne room. Although there are two thrones at one end, they are decorative and not used during the investitures or citizenship ceremonies held in the room.
Behind the chairs hangs a heraldic banner with the initials ER. Our guide explained these are not, as we thought, to represent the late Queen, but in fact originally started for George V’s coronation. It took so long to complete that, by the time it was ready Edward V111 had succeeded the throne. After his abdication it was packed away and only re hung when the late Queen came to the throne 17 years later. Like most rooms the walls were filled with portraits, but we were guided to one, whose eyes did actually appear to follow you as you moved passed. 👀. (Probably checking if I was behaving)
The state dining room, was set to receive guests, and despite being ticked off earlier, I was invited to take a seat at the center of the table. My back towards the fire and looking out over the garden, for a few moments at least I can say that I have sat in the same position as Queen Elizabeth 11. Dotted around the room and on the table are replicas of pineapples. At one time these were a sign of wealth and being so expensive usually just used as a centrepiece. To reduce costs the family who originally owned the house grew pineapples in huge greenhouses on the estate. It is said that if a pineapple is removed from the table, that your host is suggesting it’s time to leave. I have a silver plated pineapple at home. Gifted by friends, to whom I had related this to, I have yet found the need to use it to politely kick guests out 😂.
Moving into the state drawing room, where the Royal family gathers when they are staying in the Castle, we found ourselves in a large, yet cosy space. The walls are decorated with photos of the family and paintings of and by the family. You can imagine the young Princes and Princesses running around enjoying the space away from prying eyes.
At the present time, there is a display of contemporary art at the castle, depicting political figures on both sides of the divide, from Mo Mowlem to Martin McGuiness from Gerry Adams to Margaret Thatcher, sitting alongside US presidents Bill Clinton and George Bush. Faces from a turbulent past, a poignant reminder of the previous troubles but also the security that now thankfully presides.
A wonderful tour. Our guide was knowledgeable and enthusiastic, which always makes it more interesting and entertaining.
Back outside, we crossed the sweeping drive into the courtyard towards another exhibition. Guiding us towards the entrance. were spectacular flower and topiary displays depicting the needlework that had created the dresses we were about to see. The exhibition was much smaller than we had anticipated, with only a handful of dresses, but they were beautiful and interesting to see photos of the late Queen, her sister Princess Margaret and Diana Princess of Wales all looking beautiful and glamorous.
Across the narrow road that runs through the village was a fort, which was originally the home of the family who built Hillsborough. With its high wall surrounding the inner garden, it seemed the lawn has become a popular meeting place for families and dog walkers. A little sanctuary for locals, away from the hustle and bustle of village and tourist life.
We took a final stroll through some of the gardens on our way back to the entrance, the gift shop to purchase our guide book filled with photos 😂 and a cuppa in the large airy cafe.
A magical few hours. I’m so glad we were able to visit.
On route ‘home’ we had to return our hire car. It had served us well, having taken us North one day and South the second. The rental offices were still fairly South of our hotel, so once we’d dropped it off, why not check out the local trains. The rain had been threatening all day, but held off whilst at the Castle, only for the heavens to open as we walked to the station. We’d missed a train by minutes, but fortunately there was shelter from the downpour. Despite being rush hour, when the train arrived there was plenty of room, it was a clean, smooth and a cheap ride into Grand Central Station, which was vast, yet easy to navigate.
Seemingly like everyone else on the rush hour train, we headed to a delightful old pub, the Crown, and after a while secured one of the many little snugs. These snugs were originally used for women to sit and enjoy a drink in privacy. As the Guinness flowed around us I, am afraid, stuck to my usual.
Yet another wonderful day in this vibrant and friendly city. We had experienced so much history and beautiful scenery, yet were only half way into our visit and had more adventures to look forward to, a bit closer to ‘home’.